Tuesday 28 April 2009

Beautiful, no matter what they say...

(Thursday-Saturday 23-25 April 2009)

Costa Rica is beautiful. Of a natural beauty which is more intense than anything else I’ve seen thus far. That, and the natural parks in particular, was what brought me here. So, no disappointments there.

Sure, chicken buses gave way (almost, but not in total) to normal, more punctual buses. Things seem more European, westernised – no more gunmen ensuring safety at stores’ entrances, for instance.

(I’m curious to know what I’d have found of Costa Rica should I’ve came here directly from Portugal, without any previous time at other Central American countries – would I still find it so harmless, or would I’ve experienced a cultural shock anyway?)

But, as I was saying, tourism is more developed here. Not that I’ve seen many more tourists here than elsewhere – it’s not so much the case. Things have just been around for longer – since the 60s and 70s, when the boom started. Meaning there is more infrastructure – from hostels to supermarkets - and the culture of receiving tourists is more developed – it’s easier to find a coffee shop with a little more character or the random sushi place.

It also means there are plenty of (US, mostly) ex-pats and you can speak English almost anywhere. Or that it’s very easy to go down the coast and find beautiful beaches destroyed by concrete of resort development, or visit natural reserves which seem more like Disney theme parks, so crowded they can become. [partially quoting the guidebook here, as I’ve fortunately managed to escape that kind of place thus far…]

But you still have plenty of unspoiled places. Like the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula, where you can drive for hours without seeing a car or visit beach after beach of deserted sand. Or the natural park of Rincon De La Vieja, where I managed to hike for hours in the nature treks without seeing a single (human) soul.

Having your own wheels helps – you can get to the most remote places quicker, and without having to pay really high 4WD taxi fares, as there isn’t public transportation for many of the most interesting places.

That’s why I rented a 4WD for a few days. No, the 4WD thing is not so much a childish demand of mine – you’ve no idea how bad most of the roads are around here. If you choose to drive, you do need one.

I'm happy I decided not to give up after the first comments I heard on the road a few weeks ago that Costa Rica was too explored by tourism and it wouldn't feel as authentic as other Central American countries.

Actually, I’ve been founding plenty of small hidden treasures to enjoy all by myself.

And hey, Costa Rica is just too beautiful for you not to give it a try...



Now we're talking...

Natural park of Rincon De La Vieja, where I hiked for 20km in the humid forest. Monkeys and colourful birds, plus two rain forest deer that passed less than 3 meters away from me. I was trying to reach my camera with one hand while the other was trying to shut my wide-open mouth from seeing the first deer, when the second one passed running, really really close. Then there was a big snake, less than a meter from my feet that made me jump and remember Costa Rica is really famous for its biodiversity. At that moment, I decided to grab a walking stick – just in case…






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Yes, the natural park of Rincon De La Vieja is a volcanic site...
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Cycling in Cabo Branco, in the southern tip of Nicoya Peninsula



This deserted beach, only reachable through the paid-for natural reserve of Cabo Blanco, is paradise. There are always plenty of birds in the water (it's a major nesting site for them), and they don't fly away when you dive and swim just by their side. They rule here...
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...As do these huge lizards, which are everywhere - you soon get used to them

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