Google map: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=pt-PT&geocode=&q=bogot%C3%A1&ie=UTF8&ll=4.614411,-74.114628&spn=1.341432,2.801514&z=9
People say in Colombia that while Costeños (Colombians from the Caribbean) are party-animals and Paisas (Colombians from Antioquia, the Medellín department) are serious entrepreneurs, Cachacos (naturals of Bogotá) are dull. Cachacos dull? Bollocks!
For the first time in LatAm I’ve really liked a big city. And, for the first time since UPAVIM, I was genuinely sad for leaving a place. That says it all...
Bogotá is a huge metropolis – around 8 million souls live there! - and the stories I had heard from Colombians seeking “refuge” in the countryside to move away from the hurly-burly of the capital had made me fear the worse. No way: not only I encountered no problems whatsoever, but I actually truly enjoyed the cosmopolitan vibe of the city, its pleasant wide streets, the urban culture, the nightlife. And, of course, having a group of local friends I had met in El Cocuy showing me the “real Bogotá” made it definitely a special experience.
The streets are fairly clean – cleaner than in Lisbon, I have to say. There are still colonial architecture traits here and there, which remind you the all time this is a city full of history. If not colonial-like, the more modern streets and avenues have a pleasant feel, far away from the tasteless brick-and-mortar chaos of the Central American capitals. There are neighbourhoods full of culture – one where all the theatre happens, another one where it’s all about skateboarding and street art, another one where all the fashion designers showcase their work. Very London-like…
And then, of course, there is the night life. And having local friends showing you around, taking you to places you’d never hear about as a tourist, gives a unique insight into the “cachaca” way of partying.
Having a “botellón” of wine and bread, in the historical plaza where the city of Bogotá was born centuries ago, just before a theatre performance. Dancing salsa, merengue, vallenato and reggaeton in a small club in the middle of nowhere, which is supposed to stay (illegally) open until dawn – “amañecer” as they call it here. “Amañecer” in a house-party instead, as the club would stay open until that late only on the following day. (It was funnier at home any way...)
Having “lechona” (“leitão” in Portuguese – how do you say that in English?) for breakfast. Being invited to dance salsa in a neighbourhood well beyond the city outskirts that ends up being like the “Damaia of Bogotá”, in a club that surprisingly transforms a 2am samba show into a strip-tease gig. (Time to show some tiredness and suggest going home there, as the atmosphere became… hum… a bit heavy…).
Having another “botellón” in “zona rosa”, the posh nightlife area of Bogotá. Dancing for free there, thanks to the sound coming out of the bars around. Buying liquor under-the-counter from street vendors, who try to hide their trade from the police (do they?). Calling the “correo de la noche” in the middle of the night, a home-delivery service that sells drinks when both bottles and throats are dry, but the house-party is still going.
Bogotá by night, or by day – I loved it. Thank you, my friends!
Candelaria, the old colonial quarter of Bogotá. It's actually a beautiful neighbourhood - pity this is all I managed to photograph...
Dissident voices have a bit more room to express themselves in the capital...
Transmilenio, the metro-like bus system of Bogotá and, in the background, the green hills that surround the city to the east. Sometimes they made me think of pictures I know of Rio de Janeiro. Ok, perhaps not from this angle...
The view from Monserrate, on the top of the hills. Nice, very nice 
An excellent macchiato in Parque de la 93, one of the trendiest spots in Bogotá
Sunny, on a weekend, Parque de la 93 had some of the atmosphere of the small parks in London - crowded, welcoming and family-friendly
Last night in Bogotá and a really tasty home-made dinner by my "hosts" in Bogotá: "patacones" (fried "plátanos") with tomato-based sauce, and "arepas" with a fantastic chicken and beef filling. Need to try this at home - well, if it won't go well, you can get the idea from the photo
In Bogotá, be a "cachaco": no small beer talk here - dinner is followed by "aguardiente de anis". ¡Salud!_
Even if not as strong as the Portuguese "aguardiente", this thing is still quite "potente". Hang in there, Juan!
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Yes, definitely “potente”. And not that tasty, when you mix it with wine. “Red Sea submarine”, we named it. Hang in there, Sabrina!
The good thing is that we finished the leftovers of wine from the dinner quickly. Once taken as it should, the “aguardiente” is actually not that bad… Hang in there, Sandra!
What was I saying – not that bad? Giving bad reputation to Portugal here – because of the terrible accent and the poor tolerance to… hum… anis…
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Last day in Bogotá, with the old "tejo gang" from Guican (a few posts below) partially reunited. From left to right, Sabrina, Micha (hiking partner in El Cocuy), Juan, Sandra and... me. After postponing my departure for 2 or 3 times, it was time for yet another delay due to the surprise arrival of Micha that morning, who would take a flight to Canada at night. Still time for a chicha (beer-like drink made out of corn) and half a bottle of "aguardiente". "Para o caminho", as we say in Portugal. I slept really well in the bus that night...
Dear Jeff,
ReplyDeleteThanks for post a good reference of the city, you are very welcome to visit the city every time when you'll like and here you'll find the best of our people for sure!
Regards,
Bogotá