(Thursday-Saturday, 2-4 July 2009)
Google map: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=pt-PT&geocode=&q=%22san+agust%C3%ADn%22+colombia&sll=4.713303,-76.099548&sspn=10.714568,14.084473&ie=UTF8&ll=2.383346,-76.497803&spn=1.34463,2.801514&z=9
While in Tierradientro (see two posts below) the underground tombs are the highlight, in San Agustín are the stone statues that call your attention. Here, the tombs are of a much simpler nature, and the focus was put on the “stone guardians” of the dead. At the end, statues were put on top of the tomb, and it was all covered with dirt, until the all structure resembled a belly-like shape. To symbolise a new birth, now in sync with mother nature.
It’s thought that it was the same civilisation that lived in Tierradentro and San Agustín. Or at least they were communities very well linked with each other, as most elements are common between the two sites.
As you can see in the photos, most statues are anthropomorphic, as they represent the community’s spiritual leaders – the shamans – merged with the most respected and feared animals from the forest – like monkeys, jaguars and alike – from whom they’d expect to gain special powers. These images of man and animal combined into one came from the shamans themselves, in night time spiritual sessions when they’d intake hallucinogenic substances, and would dream of special communication with the animals and the ability to share their powers. I guess you can say that San Agustin’s statues are of stoned people made by… stoned people.
It’s interesting how the Spanish, their catholic church – and pretty much all of the official institutions of the Western society – converted so many of these cultural manifestations into abominations and heresy. Be it the spiritual consumption of psychotropic substances naturally available in the jungle that I just mentioned, or the representation of sexuality and birth, without any complexes or stigmas, found in some of the statues (I mean, the satues that survived the impetuous of destruction by the European conquerors of all the “barbarian and non-Christian” representations).
One final word to Carlos, the guide that walked me through the archaeological park. I do most of my travels without a guide – I don’t need someone to tell me “that a mountain is a mountain, and that’s the way to the mountain”. A good exception to the rule is when visiting historical places like these, especially when you find someone so knowledgeable of what he’s talking about, but also so interested in other cultures, and with interesting thoughts on Colombia’s history and current state of affairs (the war, the politics), and also how all that relates to what happened and is happening in other countries. Thanks for the interesting walk and talk!
Google map: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=pt-PT&geocode=&q=%22san+agust%C3%ADn%22+colombia&sll=4.713303,-76.099548&sspn=10.714568,14.084473&ie=UTF8&ll=2.383346,-76.497803&spn=1.34463,2.801514&z=9
While in Tierradientro (see two posts below) the underground tombs are the highlight, in San Agustín are the stone statues that call your attention. Here, the tombs are of a much simpler nature, and the focus was put on the “stone guardians” of the dead. At the end, statues were put on top of the tomb, and it was all covered with dirt, until the all structure resembled a belly-like shape. To symbolise a new birth, now in sync with mother nature.
It’s thought that it was the same civilisation that lived in Tierradentro and San Agustín. Or at least they were communities very well linked with each other, as most elements are common between the two sites.
As you can see in the photos, most statues are anthropomorphic, as they represent the community’s spiritual leaders – the shamans – merged with the most respected and feared animals from the forest – like monkeys, jaguars and alike – from whom they’d expect to gain special powers. These images of man and animal combined into one came from the shamans themselves, in night time spiritual sessions when they’d intake hallucinogenic substances, and would dream of special communication with the animals and the ability to share their powers. I guess you can say that San Agustin’s statues are of stoned people made by… stoned people.
It’s interesting how the Spanish, their catholic church – and pretty much all of the official institutions of the Western society – converted so many of these cultural manifestations into abominations and heresy. Be it the spiritual consumption of psychotropic substances naturally available in the jungle that I just mentioned, or the representation of sexuality and birth, without any complexes or stigmas, found in some of the statues (I mean, the satues that survived the impetuous of destruction by the European conquerors of all the “barbarian and non-Christian” representations).
One final word to Carlos, the guide that walked me through the archaeological park. I do most of my travels without a guide – I don’t need someone to tell me “that a mountain is a mountain, and that’s the way to the mountain”. A good exception to the rule is when visiting historical places like these, especially when you find someone so knowledgeable of what he’s talking about, but also so interested in other cultures, and with interesting thoughts on Colombia’s history and current state of affairs (the war, the politics), and also how all that relates to what happened and is happening in other countries. Thanks for the interesting walk and talk!
Jaguar teeth, monkey-like traits. Oh yes, I'm feeling high... 
This how the structure of statues, to be placed on top of the tomb and then covered with dirt, would have looked like. The two front statues on the sides represent two penises, and the marks on them the time schedule to the birth of a new child (shown in the middle). Not much of an heresy, is it?
An eagle hunting a snake, representation of power, speed and agility. The ability to represent so much with so simple lines and shapes was interpreted by the conquerors as lack of artistic ability and signal of a mediocre culture. The truth is that our civilisation would have to wait a few centuries to get to this! Go figure...
This one gives a good view of how the all structure, once covered with dirt, acquired a belly-like shape
The "thing" tied up to the shaman's belly? It's his penis. Not many of such representations survived the catholic fever of the conquerors, as they weren't "proper". Barbarians...
Even more impressive than the statue itself - sculpted on the bare rock by the cliff - it's its setting (see video below). This is the canyon of Rio Magdalena, which starts flowing not far away from this spot, and goes all the way to the Caribbean coast
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