Tuesday 4 August 2009

Knock, knock, knocking on the Amazon’s door

(Wednesday-Friday, 29-31 July 2009)

Google map: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=pt-PT&geocode=&q=puyo+ecuador&sll=-2.893667,-79.021397&sspn=2.687972,5.603027&ie=UTF8&ll=-1.454159,-78.126526&spn=0.672692,1.400757&t=h&z=10

Baños (check on the left of the Google map) is a small village surrounded by stunning Andes scenery. Probably one the locations with the most impressive natural setting I’ve ever seen. Imagine the cliffs that surround Andorra becoming even steeper, surrounding the city 360º, and getting lush green. It’s something like that…

It must have been an idyllic place years, perhaps decades ago. But now it has been taken over by tourism. The bad type of tourism. It’s a Mecca of cheap forms of adrenaline-rush activities, ranging from rafting to mountain biking. The proximity of the still very active volcano Tungurahua adds to the mix. Dozens and dozens of low quality tourist agencies all offering the same type of standardised and uninteresting tours. Oh!, how I looooooove those bloody agencies!! Zero differentiation in their offering, all targeting the same type of traveller, with the same type of pre-packaged experiences. To hell with you!!!

I arrived to Baños still half-dead from my climbing experience to Chimborazo, got quickly amazed by the beautiful scenery and even quicker depressed by the touristy feel of the town. Decided to leave early the following day. And so I did.

But then decided to go back… Only because I did the Baños-Puyo road on a bus, and was deeply impressed by the stunning beauty of the ride. I had to do it on my own, by bike, I though! And so I did. Got the bus from Puyo back to Baños, time for another night in the tourist getto, a good football match with the locals in the late afternoon, and a 44km bike ride the following day, repeating the Baños-Puyo road that I had done the day before. With all the back & forwards counted, I did that journey 5 times!! Every time was worth it…

I don’t think the pictures capture the beauty of the place properly. The road navigates a valley that goes from deep Andean mountains all the way to the beginning of the Amazon plateau. The valley opens up gently, and the gorge surrounded by lush green cliffs gives way bit by bit to more tropical landscape, of gentler shapes.

There is something magical about seeing this transition from the Andes mountain range to the world’s biggest tropical forest just in front of your eyes, just below your feet. I don't know... I was just blown away by it...

I did that journey 5 times, right? I would have done it 10 times, if needed be…

.

Please forget the stupid helmet - focus on the surroundings! :-D




Steep cliffs, narrow valley, beautiful scenery




Waterfalls everywhere, including on the road...

Lush, lush, lush green...

And here it is, the valley opening up gently, welcoming the Amazon, just in from of me...

The Amazon's door

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